Any lens with a manual aperture ring should solve the problem, by keeping the iris blades in the same position for the entire duration of the stop-motion shot or time-lapse. There are general guidelines about not stopping down too far, but each copy of each lens has its own limits. And, since the camera controls the aperture mechanically, friction causes minute differences in the exact size of the aperture as the iris blades close each time a photograph is taken. However, most modern digital cameras control the aperture of the lens from the camera body.
Stop-motion flicker, often found in animation and time-lapse photography, usually occurs because the lens is wide open until the shutter or depth-of-field preview button is pressed.Īt this point, the lens stops down to take a picture or preview the depth of field. Most modern lenses communicate with the camera body to assist the photographer in setting focus and exposure. More often than not, the camera lens is what causes stop-motion flicker. Using auto-focus will not cause flicker, but it will most likely cause differences in the focal plane depending on the depth of field and movement within the shot, resulting in a different and potentially more severe problem. For time-lapse photography, use a constant Av value and a bulb exposure if possible. For example, DSLRs cannot really be consistent from frame to frame when shooting at extremely fast shutter speeds. Fast shutter speeds are also a common cause of flicker. Any auto settings, such as auto-exposure, auto white balance, and light optimizer will usually cause luminance variations from shot to shot. Make sure that all auto settings on the camera body and lens are turned off and set to manual. The idea is to pick the most stable regions in the shot. Then keyframe the positions of the sample points based on the movement in the scene. Setting the sample area to sample more pixels will help. The effect works by setting points on the screen that you wish to stabilize. If the shot moves, reposition as necessary. On the first layer, create a feathered mask around the area s that received the flicker in the bad layer. Make the duplicate 1 frame long, put it above the original layer, and move it in time to cover the flicker frame. Duplicate the layerand on the duplicate, find an adjacent frame with no flicker.
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There are many causes of flicker, including-but not limited to-auto camera settings, the type of lens used, high aperture settings, fast shutter speeds, Av stepping, Tv stepping, natural lighting changes, incandescent and fluorescent lighting, fluctuating electricity, clothing worn while animating, and the materials that are being photographed. This issue is usually referred to as flicker.
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